Colouring Lesson 3

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Colouring Lesson 3

The principles of colour selection.

Aim - Know the basic principles of colour selection.

• Recall the basic colour wheel.
  
• Explain the differences between a primary, secondary and tertiary colour.
  
• Analyse the colour wheel to give examples of complimentary colours.
  
• Describe the different depths and tones found in the hair and how we use the international colour chart.
  
• Be aware of the difference between Eumelanin and Pheomelanin.

What do you know about the colour wheel?	Keep thinking...	What does the person next to you know?
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Write down what you think each one is.
Primary colours, Secondary colours, Tertiary colours and Complementary colours.

Primary Colours

They are the source of all other colours. 

Primary colour cannot be made by mixing colour together.

Secondary colours.

Secondary Colours.

Secondary colours can be made by mixing primary colour together.

Tertiary Colours

• In the same way mixing primary colours together gives you secondary colours.

• Primary and secondary colours can also be mixed to create tertiary colours. 

• There are six tertiary colours.
  

Drag each primary colour ...

... to its correct
complementary colour!

Green

Purple

Orange

Red

Yellow

Blue

Drag and Drop Quiz

Recall prior knowledge of complementary colours (colours opposite each other on the colour wheel).

Complimentary colours

These colours compliment 

each other but what else do they do?

What would happen if you mix the following?

Red and green

Blue and orange

Yellow and purple.

Lets test your memory...

01:38

Depth and Tone

• Hair colour is defined in terms of depth and tone.
  

• Depth is the base colour (lightness or darkness) of the hair and ranges from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde).
  

• Tone refers to the warmth or coolness of a colour. There are two types of tone: primary and secondary.
  

01:52

International Colour chart

• The ICC is a numbering system that all manufactures follow.

• Everyone uses the same to describe the colour depth.

• The depth refers how light or dark the hair is.

01:52

Number	Depth
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

Hair Depths

Black

Darkest Brown

Dark Brown

Medium Brown

Light Brown

Dark Blonde

Medium Blonde

Light Blonde

Very light blonde

Lightest Blonde

02:25

Tones of the hair

Unfortunately, manufactures don't all use the same numbering system when describing tones. 

All manufactures have their own numbering system that you will need to learn.

All numbering systems describe the tone you see. 

All manufactures use a similar description of the tone, but the numbering system will vary.

Description of tone	Goldwell
Natural
Ash
Gold
Pearl
Copper
Mahogany
Red
Violet
Brunette
Beige
Natural Ash
Centre

N

A

G

P

K

RV

V

B - 4-7

B - 8-10

NA

BP

R

In the colour chart, the first digit after the depth is the stronger ‘primary tone’

For example 8A is light blonde with a strong tone of Ash.

When there are two tones the first number or letter is the stronger tone and the second is a minor tone.

For example

6GB – would be dark blonde with a strong Gold tone and a minor Brown tone.

8GB

Green

Gold

Brunette

Beige

Blonde

Light blonde

Dark Brown

Medium Blonde

Medium Brown

Natural hair pigments

The cortex contains all the natural and artificial colour pigments of the hair. It is the layer of the hair where all chemical action takes place. You can see the hair’s colour through the transparent cuticle.

 

Natural hair pigment varies from person to person, depending on the colour pigments.

The pigments are called MELANIN and consist of two types:

Eumelanin and Pheomelanin.

Eumelanin

Eumelanin (dark hair) is made up of black to light brown colour pigments.

These are larger colour molecules with varying amounts of all three primary colours, but predominately contain blue and red pigments.

Pheomelanin

Pheomelanin (lighter hair) is made up of blonde colour pigments. 

These are tiny molecules of colour spread throughout the cortex, with varying amounts of red, yellow and orange colour molecules, but predominately contains yellow pigments.

Natural hair colour

• If you looked at two heads of hair, one dark brown and one light brown, both would have the same amount of colour pigments, but the amounts of blue, red and yellow melanin would vary. 
• These different combinations give us depths and tones.

• Clients with darker hair (more eumelanin pigments) who want a much lighter result may need to have their hair PRE-LIGHTENED before applying the final colour choice. 
• This technique involves lightening the hair with a lightening product and suitable strengths peroxide to the desired level of lift, before adding your chosen tone. 
• The tone can be added with a semi-permanent, quasi-permanent or even a permanent colour with a low-level peroxide.
  

What technique may be needed for clients with darker hair who want a much lighter result?

1. Adding a toner
2. Pre-lightening the hair
3. Applying a semi-permanent color
4. Using a high-level peroxide

Which type of melanin is predominant in dark hair?

1. Pheomelanin
2. Red melanin
3. Eumelanin
4. Blue melanin

What is the cortex of the hair responsible for?

1. Containing natural and artificial color pigments
2. Protecting the hair cuticle
3. Producing melanin
4. Determining the hair's texture

What does the first number or letter represent in a hair color with two tones?

1. The stronger tone
2. The minor tone
3. The brand of the hair color
4. The depth of the hair color

Have you ever lightened, or watched a colleague lightening, someone’s hair with a base 4 or 5 – and got stuck at the yellow/orange stage?

Yes

No

Undertones

This is because the pheomelanin pigments are smaller and harder to remove. You need to understand what the natural shade has underneath to make it that depth.

When you are removing colour you will be lifting colour – both natural and artificial – out of the hair.

Neutralising unwanted colour tones

• The colour star is also used to help us neutralise unwanted colour tones. The colours opposite each other will cancel each other out.
  
• If a colour result has a green tone, you would need to add a red toner to neutralise it.
  
• The most common toners used have violet or blue in to neutralise yellow or orange tone on the hair when lightening.
  

Which color is used to neutralize a green tone in hair?

1. Red
2. Yellow
3. Blue
4. Violet

What is the technique called when you lighten the hair before applying a final color?

1. Color blending
2. Hair bleaching
3. Pre-lightening
4. Tone addition

What are the primary colors predominantly found in eumelanin?

1. Green and violet
2. Black and brown
3. Blue and red
4. Yellow and orange

Which type of hair pigment is responsible for dark hair?

1. Eumelanin
2. Melanin
3. Pheomelanin
4. Blond melanin

What is the first digit after the depth in a hair color numbering system?

1. The minor tone
2. The secondary tone
3. The undertone
4. The stronger ‘primary tone’

Removing depth and tones

Underlying tones.

Does tint lift tint?

Yes

No

If there is a permanent colour already on your clients hair and they want to achieve a lighter tone, you need to remember

Meaning a permanent colour will not lift any artificial colour on the hair. This would require you to pre-lighten the hair to achieve the desired colour.

Equally is the level of lift required by the client is not achievable using a permanent colour with 12%, then you would need to pre-lighten the hair with the lightening products first.

What happens when you mix red and green?

1. It creates a purple color.
2. It creates a yellow color.
3. It creates a brown color.

What do complimentary colors do?

1. They compliment each other.
2. Complimentary colors do not have any specific function.
3. Complimentary colors clash with each other.

What are tertiary colors?

1. Tertiary colors cannot be made by mixing colors.
2. Colors created by mixing primary and secondary colors.
3. There are only three tertiary colors.

How are secondary colors created?

1. Secondary colors cannot be made by mixing colors.
2. By mixing primary colors together.
3. Tertiary colors are secondary colors.

What are primary colors?

1. They are the source of all other colors.
2. Secondary colors are primary colors.
3. Primary colors can be made by mixing colors together.

Write down 3 things you learned in this lesson.

Have students enter three things they learned in this lesson. With this they can indicate their own learning efficiency of this lesson.

Write down 2 things you want to know more about.

Here, students enter two things they would like to know more about. This not only increases involvement, but also gives them more ownership.

Ask 1 question about something you haven't quite understood yet.

The students indicate here (in question form) with which part of the material they still have difficulty. For the teacher, this not only provides insight into the extent to which the students understand/master the material, but also a good starting point for the next lesson.