Colouring Lesson 5

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Colouring Lesson 5

Lesson objectives:

• Recall the difference between primary, secondary and complementary colours.
• State the different types of colour problems that can occur 
• Explain the reasons that we would pre-softern 
• Describe different types of colour correction products and their benefits.

What does SHUD stand for in COSHH regulations?

1. Standard Handling and Usage Directives
2. Safety and Health Under Disaster
3. Storing, Handling, Using, Disposing
4. Salon Haircare and Upkeep Directions

What should you do when mixing colors and lighteners?

1. Mix them correctly in a well-ventilated area.
2. Mix them randomly.
3. Mix them in a closed room.
4. Mix them without following any instructions.

Primary Colour 

Secondary colour 

Red 

Blue 

Yellow 

Orange 

Violet 

Green 

Number	Depth
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

Hair Depths

Black

Darkest Brown

Dark Brown

Medium Brown

Light Brown

Dark Blonde

Medium Blonde

Light Blonde

Very light blonde

Lightest Blonde

What types of problems can occur when colouring?

Basic colouring problems

• Restoring depth and tone
• Neutralising colour tones
• Colouring resistant hair

Restoring depth and tone

• Hair can be slightly faded and would require an all over colour
• Pre-lightened hair might need to be pre-pigmented before adding the target shade.

What caused hair to loose it colour?

Restoring depth and tone

Hair can loose it tone from:

• Using harsh shampoos and conditioners
• Too much time in the sun
• Overuse of heated equipment
• The hair is porous and the cuticle is not closed.

Replacing tone

Replacing tone is easier than replacing loss depth. 

Loss of tone can be refreshed with a semi-permanent or quasi colour.

What is meant by the term 'Pre-pigmentation'

Pre-pigmentation

• This means replacing the lost colour pigment that has been removed during a lightening process.
• Hair can be coloured darker but the pigment must be replaced first.
• When we lightening hair, the pheomelanin is removed (red and yellow tones) meaning these tones need to be replaced.

Application of pre-pigment 

You must first decide what the target depth will be. Once you have agreed this, look at the lightening curve. 

For example, if your client requires a depth of 6, an orange pigment will have to be applied prior to applying the base 6. If you do not pre-pigment the hair, you will achieve a khaki, flat colour without tone.

If you are pre-pigmenting a certain area, ensure you section the unwanted hair away and use wrap or meche so that no unwanted colour is deposited on the areas not being coloured.

What product would we use to pre-pig?

Products

• Semi Permanents 
• Quasi permanent 
•  Permanent colour with a very low peroxide or water.

Drag each primary colour ...

... to its correct
complementary colour!

Green

Purple

Orange

Red

Yellow

Blue

Drag and Drop Quiz

Recall prior knowledge of complementary colours (colours opposite each other on the colour wheel).

Neutralising colour tone

Why might we need to neutralise colour tone?

• Poor diagnoses of natural tone
  
• Wrong colour choice
  
• Underdeveloped products – insufficient lift or deposit of tone/development of tone
  
• Hidden tones within the hair (often golden/copper tones)

What do you already know about colouring resistant hair?

Colouring resistant hair

• Clients with a high percentage of white hair tend to find the colour coverage can be less effective.
• White hair is often resistant to the colour because of the tightly compact cuticle. 
• To overcome this, you may need to pre-soften the hair. 
  

Pre-softening

Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4

Pre-softerning

Always follow MFI. 

• Wear the correct PPE.
  
• Pour 20 vol. (6%) liquid peroxide into a clean tint bowl.
  
• With a tint brush, paint the peroxide onto the resistant area.
  
• If the hair is very resistant, you may need to use heat or leave the peroxide to dry for 15–20 minutes.
  
• If the hair is only slightly resistant, you can apply the neat peroxide, mix your intended colour and apply it over the top.
  
• Do not rinse before applying colour to the hair. The cuticle scales should now be sufficiently lifted for colour penetration – this allows the maximum development time for colouring the hair.
  

What other colour correction services can we offer a client?

Colour correction

• Removing artificial colour
•  Removing bands of colour
• Correcting highlights or low lights
• Retouching colour (colour spotting)

Removing artificial colour

Use of colour removers or bleach baths

More than one application of colour remover may be required depending on the depths that need to be removed.

Using colour remover

• Make sure you section the hair and apply the colour remover methodically. 
• If the reducer/remover is very liquid, use cotton wool to help you control the application. 
• Monitor development: this can vary from product to product. 
• Once the unwanted colour has been removed, rinse as instructed by the manufacturer. 
• Apply the target shade and develop.
  

Colour banding causes

• Home hair colour
• Overlapping of colour
• Poor porosity
• Colour not mixed to follow MFI

Re-touching or correcting highlights or low lights

To remedy the problem, you must accurately analyse how the banding occurred, through successful questioning and testing.

If the colour banding is not severe, retouching or spot-colouring can even out the colour.

What other problems can occur when colouring?

Problems

• Too yellow
• Too red
• Uneven / patchy
•  Dark roots
• Banding
• Adverse reaction
• Breaking
• Seepage
• Colour not taking
• Translucent results
• Hair deterioration

What is one of the problems that can occur during hair coloring?

1. Uneven / patchy
2. Hair deterioration
3. Too yellow
4. Adverse reaction

How can you fix color banding if it's not severe?

1. Apply a target shade and develop
2. Remove all color and start from scratch
3. Retouch or spot-color to even out the color
4. Use a higher volume peroxide

What causes color banding?

1. Applying color remover
2. Mixing color without following MFI
3. Using heat during color application
4. Overlapping of color

What is the purpose of pre-softening?

1. Strengthen the hair structure
2. Create color banding
3. Lift the cuticle scales for color penetration
4. Remove unwanted color

What should you do if the hair is very resistant?

1. Use heat or leave peroxide to dry
2. Apply neat peroxide without mixing color
3. Use a lower volume peroxide
4. Rinse before applying color to the hair

What is the purpose of pre-pigmenting before applying the desired base color?

1. To lighten the hair further
2. To achieve the desired depth without a khaki, flat color
3. To make the hair more porous
4. To replace removed red and yellow tones

Which type of hair coloring can refresh the lost tone?

1. Henna
2. Permanent color
3. Bleach
4. Semi-permanent or quasi color