Colour - Depth and tone

• Hairdressing
• Further Education (Key Stage 5)

Colour 

Depth & Tone 

Salt & pepper hair - this still has some colour pigments 

White hair has no influencing undertones 

The ICC - international colour chart

The ICC means, if you bought a colour in the UK eg 9.7 it would be the same colour if you purchased it in America ​

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Each number corresponds to a particular depth or tone​

The number before the dash relates to depth ie how light or dark the colour is​

• The number/s after dash relates to tone or pigment added ie the colour you can see red, violet ​
• ​The first number after dash is :- primary tone​
• ​The second number (if any) after dash is :- secondary tone​
• Some also have a third tone
• ​The primary is the strongest tone in the colour​ as its the first after the - or / or .

NXT depth

1-0 black

3-0 dark brown 

4-0 medium brown

5-0 light brown 

6-0 dark blonde 

7-0 medium blonde 

8-0 light blonde 

9-0 very light blonde 

10-0 lightest blonde 

NXT tones 

1 - blue 

2 - violet

3 - gold

4 - copper

5 - mahogany 

6 - red

7 - chocolate 

8 - green 

7-13
Which number represents the depth

8-34
Which number represents the primary tone?

6-62
Which tone represents the strongest tone?

Navigating the numbers

The depth is always before the point or dash etc 

Tones will be after this 

Some manufacturers have 1-3 numbers representing balance of tones but the tone that sits first will always be more dominant

Some manufacturers also have letters 

Using the numbering system ​

Base colours eg 5/0, 6/0 etc can be used on their own or used for normal grey coverage ​

Double base eg 4/00, 5/00 these are used for resistant grey coverage (this tends to be thick and coarse)​

Most manufacturers recommend up to base 9 to 100% grey coverage 

These bases can be used on their own or mixed into another shade

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Client is a base 7 & is 90% grey and wants her hair fully covered staying on same level- what do you mix?

Grey and white coverage 

This is the bread and butter of hairdressing 

Grey and white coverage can be tricky - 

Not all colours will give you the coverage you need/want 

A client is 100% white- she would like 8-66 - what would you mix

Client is a base 4 - very thick hair, 80% grey, wants to stay on the same level-what do you mix?

Client is base 6 - 80% grey wants 6-5

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