Colour lesson 4

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Principals of colour 

Lesson 4

Today's session

• Recall the colour wheel and the Wella depths and tones.
• Introduction into colour molecules and how these effect the hair.
• Describe the different hydrogen peroxides and the effect each one has on the hair.
• Explain how colour effects the hair's PH levels.

Keyterms

Melanin

Emulsify

Oxidisation

Drag each primary colour ...

... to its correct
complementary colour!

Green

Purple

Orange

Red

Yellow

Blue

Drag and Drop Quiz

Recall prior knowledge of complementary colours (colours opposite each other on the colour wheel).

Explain the difference between 'Depth' and 'Tone'

International Colour chart

• The ICC is a numbering system that all manufactures follow.

• Everyone uses the same to describe the colour depth.

• The depth refers how light or dark the hair is.

Number	Depth
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

Hair Depths

Black

Dark Brown

Medium Brown

Light Brown

Dark Blonde

Medium Blonde

Light Blonde

Very light blonde

Lightest Blonde

Description of tone	Wella tones
Natural
Ash (Blue / Green)
Gold (Yellow)
Pearl (Blue)
Matt (Green)
Mahogany
Red
Violet (Cool)
Brown (Red, Yellow, Blue)
Centre (Blue / Violet)

0

1

3

8

5

6

7

2

9

4

8/74

Green

Brown

Brunette

Red

Blonde

Light blonde

Dark Brown

Medium Blonde

Medium Brown

Undertones

This is because the pheomelanin pigments are smaller and harder to remove. You need to understand what the natural shade has underneath to make it that depth.

When you are removing colour you will be lifting colour – both natural and artificial – out of the hair.

Describe the difference between Eumelanin or Pheomelanin

Explain the term 'Emulsify'

Emulsify 

Is the process of adding water and massaging the colour out of the hair before rinsing. This helps break down the colour molecules and ensures even removal.

List the different types of colouring products available

Task

Research and feedback:

Identify the following about each colouring product: 

• What size colour molecules are found in the product?
• How does the colour effect the hair structure?
• Draw on the diagram to show how the molecules sit on the hair shaft.

Temporary colour

• Large colour molecules which stain the cuticle.
• Does not penetrate into the cortex.
• Lasts 1-2 shampoos.

Semi Permanent colour

• Large and small colour molecules. 
• Small colour molecules are deposited into the hair cuticle and outer edge of the hair cortex.
• Colour will last 6-8 washes.
• If the hair is unevenly porous, the result may be patchy.

Quasi permanent colour

• Mixed with a low volume peroxide (1:2 ratio).
• Small and medium colour molecules enter the cortex and oxidise by the oxidant (peroxide)
• Due to low peroxide, the colour molecules do not become very large and are gradually lost each time the hair is shampooed. 
• Lasts around 12 weeks.

Permanent colour

• Mixed with hydrogen peroxide. 
• The strength of the peroxide used varies depending on the desired result. Normally 4%, 6%, 9%, 12%.
• When mixed with peroxide the small colourless molecules penetrate through the cuticle and into the cortex.

Oxidisation - A chemical process which combines a chemical with oxygen.

Hydrogen peroxide 

Also written as H202.

Colourless liquid made from....

What is the main purpose of hydrogen peroxide?

Purpose....

• Lighten the natural and artificial colour pigments 
• Develop the colour of Oxidation tints. 

• Oxidation - A chemical process that combines a substance with oxygen.

Recall Wella Koleston developers and their uses

What is the Ph of hair and skin

1. 4-6.5
2. 4.5-5.5
3. 5-5.5
4. 7

Drag and drop:

Where does hydrogen peroxide sit on the pH scale?

Recall what ICC stands for.

List some different colour problems that could occur

Can you list the different contra- indications that need to be considered for colouring hair

1.5% / 3% / 4%

6%

9%

12%

Weak solutions.

Used to neutralise and tone.

Used with Quasi colour.

Gives one shade of lift.

Used to cover 100% white hair.

Gives 2 shades of lift.

Gives 3 shades of lift.

Which type of hair pigment is responsible for lighter hair?

1. Eumelanin
2. Melanin
3. Pheomelanin
4. Blond melanin

Which type of color lasts 6-8 shampoos?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. Toners
4. Quasi-permanent color

Which type of hair colour contains small and medium-sized colour molecules?

1. Temporary colour
2. Semi-permanent colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Quasi-permanent colour

Which type of hair colour contains large colour molecules that sit on the outside of the cuticle?

1. Quasi-permanent colour
2. Temporary colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Semi-permanent colour

Which type of melanin is predominant in dark hair?

1. Pheomelanin
2. Red melanin
3. Eumelanin
4. Blue melanin

  I would give myself a level...

U

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

I used to think...

Now I think...