Perming lesson 3

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Perming lesson 3

What can the main ingredient in neutraliser cause to coloured hair?

1. Kinder to the hair
2. Ammonia thioglycolate
3. Allergic reactions
4. Fade after perming

What is the main ingredient in acid perm?

1. Glycerol monothioglycolate
2. Sodium bromate
3. Hydrogen peroxide
4. Ammonia thioglycolate

Which type of perm is best for all hair types?

1. Acid perm
2. Ammonia thioglycolate
3. Neutraliser
4. Alkaline perm

What are the three stages of a perm?

What happens during the molding stage

Softening stage

•  Opens the cuticle layer to allow the perm lotion to penetrate the cortex
• Begins to soften the disulphide bonds
• Adds hydrogen to the hair.

As the disulphide bonds are broken by the hydrogen, 

the cystine molecule is reduced into two cysteine 

molecules.​

Moulding stage

• During the perm the hair is softened and starts to take on a new shape.
• Moulds to the new shape of the perm rod
• When chemically re-arranging, the hair is softened by cream to prepare the T4 hair for a perm. 

Fixing stage

• Neutraliser is added to permanently fix the hair in its new shape.
• Neutraliser adds oxygen which combines with the hydrogen to the cysteine molecules which creates H20.

• The H20 molecules leave the cysteine molecules. 
• This allows the recreation of one cysteine molecules. 
• The hair is now in its newly formed permanently bonded shape.
  

What percentage of disulphide bonds are broken down during the development of a perm?

100%

60-80%

25-30%

10%

How many bonds are broken down during the development stage?

• Around 25-30%
• Any more than this, the hair will become frizzy and the structure will be permanently damaged.

Today's objectives

• State where acid and alkaline perm lotions sit on the pH scale
• Be aware of what a chemical re-arranger is and when this might need to be used
• Explain the effects that temperature has on the perming process
• Be aware of the tools and equipment used during a perm

Acid perms

• pH 6-7 - meaning they are less damaging on the hair
• Require heat to activate them to open to cuticle

Alkaline perms

• pH 8.5-9.5 some can be lower at 7.1
• The lower pH the milder the lotion and less damaging to the hair
• Give firmer curls and good for resistant hair

Neutraliser

• pH 3-5
• Can be applied in different ways.

Acid

Alkaline

Neutral

Hair's PH

Acid Perm lotion

Alkaline perm lotion

What effect does temperature have on the perm process?

Chemical re-arranger

What is a chemical re-arranger?

Chemical 

re-arranger 

• Used to partially relax naturally curly hair.
• Used on T4 hair before a perm
• Cream based product which is combed into the hair to smooth it. 

Chemical 

re-arranger 

The re-arranger softens the hair by swelling the cuticle and allowing the penetration into the cortex. 

After the development, it is rinsed off and then hair would then be permed.

Where do you think this sits on the pH scale?

It sits above 9 making it an alkaline product.

Applying a chemical re-arranger

Virgin head application:

When working on longer hair, the cream-based product should be applied to the mid-lengths and ends first. 

Why? 

Virgin head application:

This is because of the heat produced from the head and because the new growth of hair is freshly KERATINISED and is more sensitive to chemicals. 

What does keratinised mean?

Shorter hair application.

For shorter hair, the product can be applied from root to tips.

Hair that has been previously permed, only the new growth towards the roots should be treated with the chemical re-arranger. 

Tools and equipment...

What tools and equipment do we need?

Tools and equipment