Session 3-Colouring- 24-25

• Hairdressing
• Further Education (Key Stage 5)

Expectations- Classroom Rules

• No entering the classroom without a tutor 
• No food or drinks  when entering the classroom- Only water in a clear bottle
• Log onto a Chromebook
• Complete 'Do Now' task
•  Participate fully in your session
• No Hands up- Questions- No opt out 
• No use of mobile phones- unless instructed to by tutor
• Learning Review booklets/ Knowledge organisers 
• Remember to put Chromebooks at the end of session and remember to log out and put back on charge. 

Today's Session 

Do Now Task – Complete the colouring effects worksheet (Use AI tools like ChatGPT for support).

Review & Set Focus – Reflect on tutor feedback and identify a learning target for today.

Recall & Apply Knowledge – Recall the different types of melanin in the hair, Why tint doesn't lift tint, Emulsify, direct and in- direct dyes 

Understand Product Effects – Recognise how different hydrogen peroxides impact the hair structure and the role of pH in colouring.

Solve Colouring Issues – Recall common colouring problems, their causes, and solutions.

Master Colour Theory – Explain underlying tones and apply the colour wheel principles.

Reflect & Set Goals – List 2–3 improvements from today and set one goal to enhance your Wella theory knowledge.

 Section 1: Understanding Hair Structure

1. Briefly describe the function of each part:

    Cuticle: The outermost protective layer of the hair that helps retain moisture and protects against damage.

    Cortex: The middle layer that contains melanin (which determines hair colour) and provides strength and elasticity.

   Medulla: The innermost layer, which may be absent in finer hair, and its function is not fully understood.

Section 2: How Hair Colouring Affects Hair Structure

  

3. Explain what happens when permanent hair dye is applied to the hair.

   -The cuticle is lifted to allow the dye to penetrate the cortex, where it reacts with melanin to change the hair colour permanently.

4. What role does ammonia play in the colouring process?

   Ammonia raises the pH of the hair and lifts the cuticle, allowing the colour to penetrate the cortex.

5. How does the developer (hydrogen peroxide) affect the hair?

   It acts as an oxidising agent to remove natural pigment and develop new colour molecules.

Section 4: Critical Thinking

Compare and contrast semi-permanent and permanent hair dyes. Which one causes more structural change and why?

Semi-permanent dye coats the hair shaft without penetrating the cortex, making it less damaging. Permanent dye penetrates the cortex and alters the natural pigment, causing more structural change.

A client with very fine, brittle hair wants to go from dark brown to platinum blonde. What advice would you give them?

Suggest a gradual lightening process instead of bleaching in one session to minimise damage. Recommend bond-repair treatments and deep conditioning masks to maintain hair health.

Section 5: Literacy Development

Define the following key terms related to hair colouring and lightening:

Oxidation: A chemical reaction where oxygen interacts with hair pigment, leading to colour change or lightening.

Porosity: The hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture or chemicals, which affects how it responds to coloring.

pH level: A measure of acidity or alkalinity; hair coloring products often have a high pH to lift the cuticle.

Keratin: A protein that makes up the structure of hair, providing strength and protection.

Write a short paragraph summarising the effects of chemical treatments on hair structure using at least three of the key terms above.

Chemical treatments like bleaching and permanent dyeing alter the hair’s porosity by raising its pH level, allowing colour to penetrate the keratin-rich cortex. This process weakens the hair structure over time, making proper aftercare essential to maintain hair health.

Section 3: How Lightening Affects Hair Structure

What happens when bleach is applied to hair? Describe the chemical reaction that takes place?

Bleach breaks down melanin in the cortex through an oxidation reaction, which lightens the hair colour.

How does repeated bleaching impact the integrity of the hair?

It weakens the cuticle, makes hair more porous, and can cause breakage, dryness, and loss of elasticity.

List three ways to minimize damage after lightening or colouring hair:

Use deep conditioning treatments regularly.

Avoid excessive heat styling.

Use sulphate-free, colour-safe shampoos and conditioners.

Describe the difference between Eumelanin and Pheomelanin

Explain why ' Tint doesn't lift Tint'

Explain the term 'Emulsify'

Emulsify 

Is the process of adding water and massaging the colour out of the hair before rinsing. This helps break down the colour molecules and ensures even removal.

List the different types of colouring products available

Explain the difference between Direct and In-Direct dyes

Types of Colouring Products 

Temporary 

Semi- Permanent 

Quasi/Demi

Permanent

Lightener 

Direct Dyes 

In direct Dyes 

Explain the effects Temporary colour has on the hair structure

Explain the effects Semi- permanent colour has on the hair structure

Explain the effects Quasi/ Demi colour has on the hair structure

Explain the effects Permanent colour has on the hair structure

Recall Wella Koleston developers and their uses

			Parts water	Total Parts
3%	6%	1	1	2
3%	9%	1	2	3
3%	12%	1	3	4
6%	9%	2	1	3
6%	12%	1	1	2
9%	12%	3	1	4

Desired strength (%)

Starting Strength (%)

Parts Peroxide

What is the Ph of hair and skin

1. 4-6.5
2. 4.5.5.5
3. 5-5.5
4. 7

Recall what ICC stands for.

List some different colour problems that could occur

Can you list the different contra- indications that need to be considered for colouring hair

Which type of hair pigment is responsible for lighter hair?

1. Eumelanin
2. Melanin
3. Pheomelanin
4. Blond melanin

Which type of color lasts 6-8 shampoos?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. Toners
4. Quasi-permanent color

Which type of hair colour contains small and medium-sized colour molecules?

1. Temporary colour
2. Semi-permanent colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Quasi-permanent colour

Which type of hair colour contains large colour molecules that sit on the outside of the cuticle?

1. Quasi-permanent colour
2. Temporary colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Semi-permanent colour

Which type of melanin is predominant in dark hair?

1. Pheomelanin
2. Red melanin
3. Eumelanin
4. Blue melanin

00:24

List the primary colours

00:36

When you mix all the primary colours together then it creates a....

1. Brown/ Ash colour
2. Brown/ Gold colour
3. Brown/Neutral colour
4. Brown/ Red colour

00:42

Explain what Tertiary colours are.

01:22

If the primary colour is red what is the neutralising colour?

1. Green
2. Orange
3. Violet
4. Blue

01:58

Explain what is meant by underlying tone

02:24

What colour would be exposed when you lighten the hair to a level 8

1. Yellow
2. Red
3. Orange
4. Yellow/ Orange

02:45

List the three layers of the hair

03:08

List the three hair textures

04:36

Explain the difference between Direct and Indirect dyes

Undertones

This is because the pheomelanin pigments are smaller and harder to remove. You need to understand what the natural shade has underneath to make it that depth.

When you are removing colour you will be lifting colour – both natural and artificial – out of the hair.

00:42

List the Secondary colours

I used to think...

Now I think...