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Perming lesson 3
Perming lesson 3
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Hairdressing
Higher Education (non-degree)
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Perming lesson 3
Slide 1 - Tekstslide
What can the main ingredient in neutraliser cause to coloured hair?
A
Kinder to the hair
B
Ammonia thioglycolate
C
Allergic reactions
D
Fade after perming
Slide 2 - Quizvraag
What is the main ingredient in acid perm?
A
Glycerol monothioglycolate
B
Sodium bromate
C
Hydrogen peroxide
D
Ammonia thioglycolate
Slide 3 - Quizvraag
Which type of perm is best for all hair types?
A
Acid perm
B
Ammonia thioglycolate
C
Neutraliser
D
Alkaline perm
Slide 4 - Quizvraag
What are the three stages of a perm?
Slide 5 - Open vraag
What happens during the molding stage
Slide 6 - Open vraag
Softening stage
Opens the cuticle layer to allow the perm lotion to penetrate the cortex
Begins to soften the disulphide bonds
Adds hydrogen to the hair.
Slide 7 - Tekstslide
As the disulphide bonds are broken by the hydrogen,
the cystine molecule is reduced into two cysteine
molecules.
Slide 8 - Tekstslide
Moulding stage
During the perm the hair is softened and starts to take on a new shape.
Moulds to the new shape of the perm rod
When chemically re-arranging, the hair is softened by cream to prepare the T4 hair for a perm.
Slide 9 - Tekstslide
Fixing stage
Neutraliser is added to permanently fix the hair in its new shape.
Neutraliser adds oxygen which combines with the hydrogen to the cysteine molecules which creates H20.
Slide 10 - Tekstslide
Slide 11 - Tekstslide
The H20 molecules leave the cysteine molecules.
This allows the recreation of one cysteine molecules.
The hair is now in its newly formed permanently bonded shape.
Slide 12 - Tekstslide
What percentage of disulphide bonds are broken down during the development of a perm?
100%
60-80%
25-30%
10%
Slide 13 - Poll
How many bonds are broken down during the development stage?
Around 25-30%
Any more than this, the hair will become frizzy and the structure will be permanently damaged.
Slide 14 - Tekstslide
Today's objectives
State where acid and alkaline perm lotions sit on the pH scale
Be aware of what a chemical re-arranger is and when this might need to be used
Explain the effects that temperature has on the perming process
Be aware of the tools and equipment used during a perm
Slide 15 - Tekstslide
Acid perms
pH 6-7 - meaning they are less damaging on the hair
Require heat to activate them to open to cuticle
Slide 16 - Tekstslide
Alkaline perms
pH 8.5-9.5 some can be lower at 7.1
The lower pH the milder the lotion and less damaging to the hair
Give firmer curls and good for resistant hair
Slide 17 - Tekstslide
Slide 18 - Tekstslide
Neutraliser
pH 3-5
Can be applied in different ways.
Slide 19 - Tekstslide
Acid
Alkaline
Neutral
Hair's PH
Acid Perm lotion
Alkaline perm lotion
Slide 20 - Sleepvraag
What effect does temperature have on the perm process?
Slide 21 - Woordweb
Slide 22 - Tekstslide
Chemical re-arranger
timer
5:00
Slide 23 - Tekstslide
What is a chemical re-arranger?
Slide 24 - Woordweb
Chemical
re-arranger
Used to partially relax naturally curly hair.
Used on T4 hair before a perm
Cream based product which is combed into the hair to smooth it.
Slide 25 - Tekstslide
Chemical
re-arranger
The re-arranger softens the hair by swelling the cuticle and allowing the penetration into the cortex.
After the development, it is rinsed off and then hair would then be permed.
Slide 26 - Tekstslide
Where do you think this sits on the pH scale?
Slide 27 - Woordweb
It sits above 9 making it an alkaline product.
Slide 28 - Tekstslide
Applying a chemical re-arranger
Virgin head application:
When working on longer hair, the cream-based product should be applied to the mid-lengths and ends first.
Why?
Slide 29 - Tekstslide
Virgin head application:
This is because of the heat produced from the head and because the new growth of hair is freshly KERATINISED and is more sensitive to chemicals.
What does keratinised mean?
Slide 30 - Tekstslide
Shorter hair application.
For shorter hair, the product can be applied from root to tips.
Hair that has been previously permed, only the new growth towards the roots should be treated with the chemical re-arranger.
Slide 31 - Tekstslide
Tools and equipment...
Slide 32 - Tekstslide
What tools and equipment do we need?
Slide 33 - Woordweb
Tools and equipment
Slide 34 - Tekstslide
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