Colouring lesson 6

• Hairdressing
• Special Education

Colouring lesson 6

Today's session

• Recap the depths and tones used with Wella
• Recall the molecules found in hair colour and how this effects the hair structure.
• Describe the different hydrogen peroxides and the effect each one has on the hair.
• Identify some problems that could occur when colouring hair and their remedies. 

Keyterms

Oxidisation

Oxy-melanin

Undertones

This is because the pheomelanin pigments are smaller and harder to remove. You need to understand what the natural shade has underneath to make it that depth.

When you are removing colour you will be lifting colour – both natural and artificial – out of the hair.

Wella Colour Circle

00:55

Explain what the international colouring system is.

01:02

What do we mean when we talk about the depth of a colour

02:46

What does it mean if there are 2 numbers before the / (for example 55/0?)

03:25

What do you notice about the tones as the depth increase/decrease?

8/74

Green

Brown

Brunette

Red

Blonde

Light blonde

Dark Brown

Medium Blonde

Medium Brown

Colour molecules

Recall the different colouring products and identify where their colour molecules sit on the hair structure.

Colour molecules

Recall the different colouring products and identify where their colour molecules sit on the hair structure.

• Temporary
• Semi-permanent
• Quasi- permanent
• Permanent 
• Lightener

Temporary colour

Temporary colour

• Large colour molecules which stain the cuticle.
• Does not penetrate into the cortex.
• Lasts 1-2 shampoos.

06:48

Semi - Permanent colour

06:58

What is an example of a Semi-permanent colour?

07:06

Quasi Permanent colour

07:20

What product is an example of a Quasi permanent colour?

07:22

Permanent colour

07:39

Describe how permanent hair colour oxidises in the hair structure.

07:55

What are the 2 types of melanin?

Semi Permanent colour

• Large and small colour molecules. 
• Small colour molecules are deposited into the hair cuticle and outer edge of the hair cortex.
• Colour will last 6-8 washes.
• If the hair is unevenly porous, the result may be patchy.

Quasi permanent colour

• Mixed with a low volume peroxide (1:2 ratio).
• Small and medium colour molecules enter the cortex and oxidise by the oxidant (peroxide)
• Due to low peroxide, the colour molecules do not become very large and are gradually lost each time the hair is shampooed. 
• Lasts around 12 weeks.

Permanent colour

• Mixed with hydrogen peroxide. 
• The strength of the peroxide used varies depending on the desired result. Normally 4%, 6%, 9%, 12%.
• When mixed with peroxide the small colourless molecules penetrate through the cuticle and into the cortex.

Oxidisation - A chemical process which combines a chemical with oxygen.

How does Lightener work on the hair?

09:19

What term do we give to hair that has been lightened?

10:03

Explain what a 'Strand test' is.

Recall Wella Koleston developers and their uses

1.9%

6%

9%

12%

4%

Weak solutions.

Used to neutralise and tone.

Used with Quasi colour.

Gives one shade of lift.

Used to cover 100% white hair.

Gives 2 shades of lift.

Gives 3 shades of lift.

Weak solution used with permanent colour to darken the hair

List some different colour problems that could occur

Can you list the different contra- indications that need to be considered for colouring hair

Case study 1

• 2 levels of lift needed.
• 9%/30 vol needed.

Case study 2

• Permanent colour as long as the hair is virgin.
• 6% / 20 vol needed for 1 level of lift.
• If the hair is coloured, you would need to pre-lighten.

Case study 3

• The ends need to be re coloured if the condition allows – then use a ashy toner on the hair with a low level peroxide.
• If the condition wont allow – the client needs to be taken down to the base of an 8 or lower and use an ashy quasi colour.

 

This client has just had all her hair lightened. Her roots are a base of a 10 and the mid-lengths are an 8. She wants to be more of an ashy blonde. What would you do?

Which type of hair pigment is responsible for lighter hair?

1. Eumelanin
2. Melanin
3. Pheomelanin
4. Blond melanin

Which type of color lasts 6-8 shampoos?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. Toners
4. Quasi-permanent color

Which type of hair colour contains small and medium-sized colour molecules?

1. Temporary colour
2. Semi-permanent colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Quasi-permanent colour

Which type of hair colour contains large colour molecules that sit on the outside of the cuticle?

1. Quasi-permanent colour
2. Temporary colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Semi-permanent colour

Which type of melanin is predominant in dark hair?

1. Pheomelanin
2. Red melanin
3. Eumelanin
4. Blue melanin

  I would give myself a level...

U

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9